Anchor Relocation – Centaur

This application is to move the first pitch anchor of Centaur up about 10 feet to the first bolt on pitch 2.

Route NameCentaur
LocationRedgarden Wall, The Prow of Tower Two
Grade5.13c
FFA Entire Route – Chris Weidner, 2012 ; Pitch 2 only – Christian Griffith, 1986

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Move The Centaur Anchor?

  • Yes (100%, 23 Votes)
  • No (0%, 0 Votes)

Total Voters: 23

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11 replies
  1. tonybubb
    tonybubb says:

    What I see here is an anchor being added in the middle of a 2 pitch route, where it is supposedly already done to this station without the second bolt. Is this a convenience bolt by definition?

  2. bondb008@hotmail.com
    bondb008@hotmail.com says:

    Preserving the hanging belay because it is historic is not reason enough, IMO. Gotta keep in mind that CG retro-bolted this aid route and didn’t free the bottom pitch. The top pitch may be “long and beautiful”, but it seems like if climbers who are climbing the whole route free, from bottom to top, think that this will make the route climb better, it’s probably a good idea…. so long as the hanging belay is actually removed.

  3. RNorris
    RNorris says:

    I am a little confused…I have been to this achor a handfull of times, but only recently so I have just used the current anchor which is the one pictured in the app. (equalized with the fixed nut). This is what the app is considering as the first bolt of the 2nd pitch, correct? and where it would like to add an additional bolt? Seems like a hanging belay regardless (although a fairly comfy one at that), however I am for it if it means getting rid of the fixed nut and green cord.

  4. Nschlichtman
    Nschlichtman says:

    The proposed new bolted anchor really makes sense and does split the 2 pitches up well (speaking to the climbing style of each respective pitch). It makes the first pitch a little longer. And the second pitch is still plenty long.

  5. corey-flynn
    corey-flynn says:

    Would be psyched to see this happen. The fixed nut is not in the best of rock and I would definitely feel safer hanging out with a partner this high off the ground at a two bolt station.

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