Anchor Relocation – Desdichado

This application is to move the anchor of Desdichado down about 20 feet.

Route NameDesdichado
LocationRedgarden Wall, South Buttress
Grade5.13c
FFAChristian Griffith, 1986

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Move The Desdichado Anchor?

  • Yes (88%, 21 Votes)
  • No (13%, 3 Votes)

Total Voters: 24

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4 replies
  1. Matt Reeser
    Matt Reeser says:

    No one uses the current anchor. If you were to use it, like I did, you will be very sad. It is comprised of two pins, a rotten sling, and a ring bolt. You are then left with two choices, three if you take Christians approach (untie and solo off). You can either lower off from that anchor, which creates so much rope drag that you are left helpless, or you can down climb to the last bolt and lower from there. An anchor that is lower would be a huge improvement to this classic climb.

  2. joshjanes
    joshjanes says:

    Voting no. But mainly because I’m willing to respect CG’s wishes on this one. The route has been done many times with the current anchor – what’s so wrong with doing a “victory solo” or a “victory whip” after completing this one. Alternatively, could one not do could counter-weight rap off the existing anchor and then the belayer pull the rope and rap normally?

  3. tonybubb
    tonybubb says:

    Sooo… right now people successfully lower/retreat from the route, as it is, without altering the anchor?
    You know, I’ve just got to say this is one I think should be left alone.

  4. corey-flynn
    corey-flynn says:

    Repeatedly lowering off the last draw of a veritable “sport” climb only hastens the replacement of fixed hardware (ie quickdraws). This one would be a good candidate for perma-draws and a lower, more sensible, anchor placement.

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