Comments Received From the Climbing Community | ||
| 30 In Favor, 3 Opposed | ||
| this should not be controversial. | ||
| Having just used the Dirty Deed rappel about two days ago to come down off Ruper, I would definately agree with the proposed additions. It will make it safer, and replace the unsightly mess of different colored slings littering the decent. | ||
| The addition of rappel anchors in this area is a good proposal, but I object to the second rappel being set at 105 ft long. 50 m ropes (165 ft) are standard, and would leave unknowing praties 25 ft short on the rappell. Even a 60 m rope, which many climbers carry these days, at 200 ft long would leave you 5 ft short on the rappel. Will there be a little plate on the bolts, like on the the Third Flatiron rappels, to indicate the non-0standard length? Even so, the rappel would be useless to climbers without either a 70 m rope, or double ropes, and not many use these in Rldo. If you're going to put in rappel anchors in this area, they should be at a standard 75 ft distance. | ||
| seems worthwhile | ||
| Who is applicant...a Guide service?, in which case there is a commercial motive | ||
| This sounds like a good idea. One question...what is the feasability of doing the 2nd rappel with a single 60-meter rope? | ||
| This is an important improvement to both climbing safety and reduction of visual impact on Redgarden Wall. I climbed the Swanson Arete last fall and found the rapell anchors near Anchor 1 and Anchor 2 to be very insufficent and dangerous, as well as an ugly eyesore on the crag. The proposed bolts would be much safer and very difficult to see if camoflaged. This would allow people another option besides downclimbing the East Slabs and allow climbers to climb without packs, because the decent would now be to the base of the climb. | ||
| I think this is a good idea, especially the part about allowing climbers to traverse the ledge and access the new anchors to the right of Zot (which I didn't know were there, but glad since that tree rap was scary). | ||
| These anchors would be a vast improvement over those that presently exist. | ||
| Agree. Existing traffic is high, rapping here. This proposal may reduce human impact over time. | ||
| The current dirty deed rappel is dangerous and on crowded weekends it is packed full of angry yelling people hiding from rock fall. This proposal would help this problem. If it does not get approved then people need to be advised to do the safer Mickey Mouse Nailup/Vertigo Rappels. | ||
| I approve BUT... I se the second Rap is 105'. Isn't there a way to make it 100' or less to a ledge, by placing the anchors strtegically? People may end up rapping off of the end of their ropes. | ||
| This is absolutely a great idea. The fixed slings currently on the route are not only an eyesore, but are hard on vegetation. This should make the descent much safer and lower impact | ||
| I think this is a good addition of bolts. It reduces the impact on the trees and hopefully makes for a "cleaner" rappel. I have rapped this gully 4-5 times without any major problems. From the stories I hear I am lucky as there seem to be lots of epic stories. My main point is if we can add bolts to protect the trees along very popular rap routes we should do it. | ||
| Seemslike a good idea. A fixed anchor rap route would eliminate all the ugly slingage and make things safer and generally friendlier on the veg. | ||
| This proposal makes sense IF the second rappel can be completed with one 60m rope (the proposal states a vertical distance of 105 feet...if this implies one rope can NOT make it, is it possible to position the anchor a bit lower to enable a single rope rap?). I would vote against this if 2 ropes are required. Also, there is a significant amount of loose rock in this area. Perhaps some efforts can be made to clean up and/or stabilize the loose rock at the same tiome the rap anchors are put in. | ||
| I looked at the first rappel this weekend. The natural thread is absolutely bomber and is very easy to find. Although there are a few small rocks in the gully, most of the choss has been sent from years of ropes being pulled. If the bolts were to be placed, they would only be about 3-5 feet away from the natural thread, so I question to what extent they will be kept out of the gully anyway. If the trees on other rappels are dying, I have no problems placing bolts. | ||
| I am in favor of any rappel bolts in Eldorado that take slings off of trees and put the rock to use. | ||
| I think this is a good idea. It can get pretty crowded there sometimes plus pulling the rope will be much cleaner, imho. | ||
| I think this would help descent for Yellow Spur tremendously. With as much traffic as the Yellow Spur sees every year, it would decrease the impact on vegetation from people hiking north to the notch by Shirtail Peak and it would be much safer then hiking down the East Slabs, especially in the dark. As a climber, I always like to see routes with easier descents. | ||
| I think this is a good idea particularly for emergency use in a thunderstorm at which point the standard East face descent route is not an option... Currently I avoid the Dirty deed rappel for all the reasons mentioned above (old slings) | ||
| I support the spirit of this action, but it is unclear why the applicant proposes to set up a 105 rappel. Many people prefer to climb with one rope. My concern is whether ropestretch allows a party to safely complete the 105 foot rappel with a single 60 meter rope (200 feet) under low light conditions. Additionally, there are plenty of gumbies out there still climbing on 50 meter ropes (165 feet). These climbers are going to end up slinging trees anyway, so does this really solve any problems? Despite my reservations, I am still voting "Yes" on the assumption that my reservations are not warranted. In any event, I hope this issue is addressed. | ||
| Excellent idea! | ||
| Anyway measures to prevent rope snags on this rappel would be a great improvement | ||
| Makes sense to me. | ||