#91. Another Pipeline Bonecrusher Anchor

Information from Applicant

The FHRC has received the following information from the applicant:



Pipeline Anchor: Place bolted station on Another Pipeline Bonecrusher



Right now it is a rope-shredding pain to clean this route. There are several fixed pieces in the crack, and historically climbers have lowered off of 'biners on these, or climbed (with considerable drag) to the tree 30' higher where some slings provide an anchor (then the second must follow the route_quite a chore!). I propose a 2-ring anchor at the end of the difficulties above the ramp where the crack ends. This would facilitate cleaning of the route, and save wear and tear on ropes. Again, the exact location for this anchor would be determined with FHRC input.

Information from FHRC

The FHRC is required to offer information about the following factors of the proposed anchor.



- Replacing slings on trees. The proposed anchor will replace, albeit indirectly, a tree anchor.



- The proposed anchor will be at about the three-quarter mark of the pitch, but it will be at the end of the hard climbing. The climbing eases from 5.12 to about 5.6 or less, where the ramp begins. There has also been, historically, an unsightly mass of gear and webbing at the proposed new anchor location. At present the current anchor consists of three stoppers, webbing and a 'biner placed in the crack on the steep wall above the slab_very near to where the proposed anchors are marked



- The new anchor would be about 70 feet from the ground.



FHRC:recommended Park:approved Action:

Comments Received From the Climbing Community

9 In Favor, 1 Opposed

Save a tree and beautify Eldorado. Okay.
Sounds good.
Sounds good, just make sure the station is placed in the best location and that it doesn't cut the good climbing short.
Ask Joe Huggins. If he's for it then I am too.
just do it - treehugger
sounds good.

It was originally my intention to do this. Life and other things (like laziness), got in the way. By all means, let's do it. Joe Huggins
Is it possible to combine all these way-too-close anchors by moving this route's anchors up and right? If you can climb 5.12, but are too lazy to continue a few feet up 5.6 to reach a higher (shared) anchor that results in far less visual blight, you should be in Boulder Canyon and not Eldorado.