Like-for-Like Fixed Hardware Replacement and Inventory
This page contains a database of bolts and other fixed hardware in Eldorado Canyon that the poster thought needed to be replaced.
WARNING! ACE DOES NOT INSPECT, MAINTAIN OR REPLACE, AND IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE INSPECTION, MAINTENANCE OR REPLACEMENT OF BOLTS OR ANY OTHER ANY FIXED HARDWARE IN ELDORADO CANYON STATE PARK.
ACE has begun this list to provide a forum for local climbers to provide their opinion on the current state of bolts and other fixed hardware and to make it easier for climbers who desire to replace fixed hardware to access a list of possible candidates for replacement. ACE makes no representation or warranty about the condition of any bolts or fixed hardware in Eldorado, and makes no representation or warranty about any bolt or fixed hardware that is on this list. ACE's opinion on the condition of fixed hardware may differ from that of the poster.
Any climber who desires to replace any bolts or fixed hardware that is a "like-for-like" replacements (e.g., replacing an old bolt with a new bolt in the same location) must notify Eldorado Canyon State Park (303.494.3943) and obtain a permit for the replacement. These permits are usually granted quickly. No application or notice to ACE's Fixed Hardware Review Committee is necessary or required.
Add to the database.
Please report all updates or corrections to aceeldo@googlegroups.com
Fixed Hardware in need of replacement
This table has a lot of columns. To make it a little easier on your eyes, just check the columns you want to see.
| Route | Fixed Gear Type | Originally Installed | Status | Priority | Comments |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Advanced Rockcraft | bolt | 1986 | Replaced May 21, 2010 |
Bolt at crux was an old buttonhead. Replaced with 3/8" 5-piece Rawl. | |
| Aerospace/Aeronaut, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database- bolt anchor at top needs replacing | |
| Allosaur, Pitch 2 | bolt | Replaced |
From Steve Levin's database- 2 bolt anchor installed | ||
| amputee love anchor, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database | |
| Android Tilt, Pitch 1 | nut | 1982 | Replaced December 31, 2008 |
2 bolt anchor atop pitch to replace 2 fixed nuts. | |
| Android Tilt, Pitch 1 | bolt | Replaced |
From Steve Levin's database - replaced anchor 2008 | ||
| Archer-Mclanahan, Pitch 1 | bolt | Long ago | Replaced September 30, 2005 |
9/05 Replaced two protection bolts(1/4" Rawl, 3/8" Star Dryvin) on route with 3/8" 5-piece SS Rawls. | |
| Atom Smasher, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
From Steve Levin's database- replace anchor bolts and add chains to anchor | ||
| Bastille Crack, Pitch 1 | bolt | Long ago | Replaced October 31, 2003 |
10/03 Replaced worn smash links and chains at top of first pitch with quick links and chains from ASCA. | |
| black walk/desert, Pitch 3 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
From Steve Levin's database- needs bolt or piton at belay | ||
| Blackwalk, Pitch 1 | bolt | 1980 | Needs Replacing as of July 9, 2010 |
The anchor on top of pitch 1 needs replacement. Bolt sleeves are exposed. | |
| Bridge-It Bardot, Pitch 1 | pin | 1980 | Replaced December 31, 2008 |
2 bolt anchor atop pitch to replace 2 bad pitons | |
| C'est La Vie, Pitch 1 | bolt | Long ago | Replaced October 31, 2003 |
10/03 Replaced hanger on one of the anchor bolts on the mid-belay with ASCA Fixe 4mm SS hanger. Also replaced severely worn hardware on anchor with 4 quick-links from ASCA. | |
| Camouflage, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database- replace all bolts | |
| Chockstone, Pitch 2 | bolt | 2009 | Replaced September 10, 2010 |
1 | 2 bolt anchor |
| cinch crack, anchor, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database | |
| Continental crag, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database- 2 bolt anchor on lefts side needs replacing | |
| Dandi Line, Pitch 1 | bolt | 1981 | Replaced December 31, 2006 |
Replaced two bolt anchor. | |
| Darkness till Dawn Rap Station, Pitch 1 | bolt | Replaced |
From Steve Levin's database | ||
| Diffraction, Pitch 1 | bolt | 1986 | Replaced December 31, 2006 |
Replaced one protection bolt. | |
| Earnest Stemmingway , Pitch 1 | bolt | 1980 | Replaced December 31, 2007 |
Replaced protection bolt in 2007. | |
| Emergency Brake, Pitch 1 | bolt | Replaced |
From Steve Levin's database | ||
| exhibit A, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database- all bolts need replacing | |
| Exodus / Book of Numbers | bolt | Needs Replacing as of May 25, 2010 |
The 2 bolt anchor at the end of p1 of Book of Numbers and also shared by Exodus is in need of updating. | ||
| Genesis, Pitch 1 | bolt | 1980s | Needs Replacing as of July 15, 2010 |
2 older bolts protect the slab climbing above the roofy move left. One has an old, rusty hanger, the other is a SMC style hanger. Bolts themselves look in OK shape, but no idea how long they are. | |
| grandmother's challenge/spur of the moment, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database- original 2 bolt anchor needs replacing | |
| Gravity's Angel | bolt | 1987 | Replaced May 27, 2010 |
All bolts on this slabby climb need updating. Most are old SMC. All have now been replaced with Rawl 5-piece 3/8" and/or fixe stainless with colored hangers. | |
| green willow wall, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Removal as of August 1, 2010 |
From Steve Levin's database- several bolts need to be moved, from old FHRC approved application | ||
| hair city, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database | |
| Hairstyles and Attitudes, Pitch 1 | bolt | 1988 | Replaced June 30, 2009 |
Replaced 10 protection bolts and two bolt anchor. | |
| Heart of Gold, Pitch 1 | bolt | Replaced |
From Steve Levin's database- per FHRC app, added bolt and replaced button head and 2nd bolt left of arete at mid-station | ||
| Incarnatioin, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database- "fix up the route" | |
| inflorescence, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database- missing 2nd, 5th, 7-10th hangars, remove stray bolt | |
| Jackson Browne , Pitch 2 | bolt | 1982 | Replaced December 31, 2006 |
Replaced protection bolt on P2. | |
| just another girl's climb, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database- replace anchor bolts, add chains | |
| lady godiva, anchor bolts, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database | |
| Le Toit Direct | bolt | Needs Replacing as of May 25, 2010 |
An old 1/4" bolt, the second on the route, was placed around 1977. The first bolt, a ring style, was placed in 1985 and also needs replacement. | ||
| le void, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Removal as of August 1, 2010 |
From Steve Levin's database- remove 2x sling anchors. From old FHRC approved app. | ||
| lips like sugar, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | all ring bolts, From Steve Levin's database | |
| Magic Carpet Ride, Pitch 1 | bolt | 1988 | Replaced December 31, 2008 |
Magic Carpet Ride: 2 bolt anchor atop pitch to replace single bolt lower point. | |
| March Of Dimes, Pitch 1 | bolt | Long ago | Replaced October 31, 2003 |
10/03 Replaced links on 1st anchor with quick-links. | |
| Mellow Yellow, Pitch 3 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of May 17, 2010 |
Several vintage bolts on the last pitch (12a face/seam) are in dire need of updating. | ||
| Mineral Maze, Pitch 1 | bolt | 1984 | Replaced December 31, 2006 |
2nd bolt replaced. | |
| model citizen, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database | |
| No Visible Means of Support , Pitch 1 | bolt | 1982 | Replaced December 31, 2006 |
Replaced one protection bolt. | |
| On-slot, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database- 2nd bolt needs replacing | |
| one and a half hours of power, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Removal as of August 1, 2010 |
From Steve Levin's database- stud needs removal | ||
| Outer Space, Pitch 1 | pin | 1970s | OK as is as of May 28, 2010 |
This is regarding the pin that has fallen out at the bottom of the P1 dihedral in 2006 or so. A perfect yellow alien takes its place. | |
| over ed powerline, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database | |
| Over'ed Powerline | bolt | Needs Replacing as of May 25, 2010 |
The single bolt on this climb protects the crux and is >20 years old. The bolt is sticking out ~1/2" and doesn't look very solid. Exposed Sleeve | ||
| PA's Variation, Pitch 1 | bolt | 1964 | Replaced June 30, 2007 |
06/07 Replaced original 1964 Pat Ament bolt with 12mmx75mm SS Fixe triplex bolt and hanger. | |
| Pansee Savage, Pitch 1 | bolt | 1984 | Replaced May 31, 2000 |
05/00 Replaced 3 protection bolts. | |
| Pilgrim, Pitch 1 | bolt | 1987 | Replaced December 31, 2008 |
2 bolt anchor at base of pitch to reinforce single bolt anchor and allow 120-foot rap to ground. | |
| pipeline bonecrusher, Pitch 1 | nut | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database- add bolt anchors (from old FHRC approved app) | |
| Pony Express, Pitch 2 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database-"re-do anchors at top of pitch 2" | |
| Pseudo Sidetrack, Pitch 2 | bolt | Long time ago | Replaced December 31, 2006 |
Replaced anchor bolts at top of P2. | |
| Psycho Pigeon, Pitch 2 | bolt | 1987 | Replaced June 30, 2007 |
06/07 Replaced five 1987 button-heads with 12mmx75mm SS Fixe triplex bolts and hangers. | |
| rough roof, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database | |
| Rush Buick, Pitch 1 | other | Long time ago | Replaced December 31, 2010 |
2 bolt anchor atop pitch to replace sling on horn. | |
| sampson effect, anchor bolts, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database | |
| Scotch And Soda, Pitch 1 | bolt | Long ago | Replaced December 31, 1999 |
12/99 Replaced 2 bolts at 1st belay. | |
| Sickness Unto Death | bolt | 1980s | Needs Replacing as of June 1, 2010 |
Old ring bolts. This is the pitch immediately left of P5 of the Naked Edge. 4 bolts visible from above Naked Edge. Hank Caylor indicates 7 bolts on Mountain Project. | |
| Side Wall, Pitch 1 | bolt | Long time ago | Replaced April 30, 2009 |
Replaced two bolt anchor. | |
| Sister morphine, Pitch 1 | tree | 1981 | Replaced December 31, 2008 |
2 bolt anchor atop pitch to replace sling on small tree. | |
| Song of the Dodo | bolt | Needs Replacing as of May 13, 2010 |
Last bolt of the route. The bolt and hanger are missing, the hole and metal sleeve are visible. | ||
| Star Track, Pitch 1 | bolt | 1980 | Replaced December 31, 2006 |
Replaced one protection bolt. | |
| Star Track, Pitch 1 | bolt | Replaced |
From Steve Levin's database- replaced 2006 | ||
| Sticky Feet, Pitch 2 | bolt | 1981 | Replaced June 30, 2007 |
06/07 Replaced a 1981 1/4 inch bolt and Leeper hanger with 12mmx75mm SS Fixe triplex bolt and hanger. | |
| Superfly, Pitch 1 | nut | 1983 | Replaced December 31, 2008 |
2 bolt anchor atop pitch to replace fixed nut and piton. | |
| Surfs up, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database- remove 2 x bolts, replace with 1 | |
| The Bulge, Pitch 3 | bolt | Long ago | Replaced June 30, 2005 |
06/05 Replaced the protection bolt (3/8" Star Dryvin) on top of 3rd pitch with 3/8" 5-piece SS Rawl. Replaced smash links and old hangers on pitch 1 and pitch 2 belays with new hangers, quick links and chain. | |
| The Diving Board, Pitch 1 | bolt | Long ago | Replaced September 30, 1998 |
09/98 Replaced 1 anchor bolt | |
| The Web, Pitch 1 | bolt | 1987 | Replaced June 30, 2007 |
06/07 Replaced all four 1987 Mammut ring bolts and the two anchor bolts with 12mmx75mm SS Fixe triplex bolts, hangers and double ring anchor hangers. | |
| Tombstone, Pitch 1 | bolt | Replaced |
From Steve Levin's database- anchor at top added | ||
| Up the Downclimb, Pitch 1 | tree | Long time ago | Replaced December 31, 2008 |
2 bolt anchor midway up pitch to allow for a single-rope rappel descent (an old sling on a small tree was used prior. | |
| Up the Downclimb, Pitch 1 | bolt | 1981 | Replaced December 31, 2006 |
Replaced two bolt anchor. | |
| Vertigo Raps, Pitch 1 | bolt | Replaced |
From Steve Levin's database | ||
| Walk The Talk, Pitch 1 | bolt | Long time ago | Replaced December 31, 2006 |
Replaced one protection bolt. | |
| wasabe, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database- all bolts need replacing | |
| Water Line , Pitch 1 | bolt | 1982 | Replaced December 31, 2006 |
One protection bolt replaced. | |
| west buttress, Pitch 2 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database | |
| West Buttress Of The Bastille , Pitch 2 | bolt | Long ago | Replaced October 31, 2003 |
10/03 Replaced worn smash links on top of 2nd pitch with 4 quick-links from ASCA. | |
| Wind Tunnel/Rhombohedral, Pitch 1 | bolt | Needs Replacing as of August 1, 2010 |
1 | From Steve Levin's database- anchor needs replacing | |
| Wingshot, Pitch 1 | bolt | Replaced August 31, 2008 |
From Steve Levin's database- higher 2 bolt anchor installed | ||
| Young, Blonde, and Easy, Pitch 1 | pin | 1983 | Replaced December 31, 2008 |
One protection bolt and 2 bolt anchor atop pitch to replace old knifeblade and sling. | |
| Your Mother | bolt | Needs Replacing as of May 21, 2010 |
Last bolt, just above the crux is still old and lousy. All others replaced in 2009. FHRC petition to relocate this bolt was denied. | ||
| Zabrina, Pitch 1 | bolt | Replaced |
From Steve Levin's database- pro bolt replaced, ASCA hanger 12x75 mm SS bolt 2008 | ||
| Zambezi, Pitch 3 | bolt | Long time ago | Replaced December 31, 2006 |
Replaced protection bolt on P3. |
