| Name | Vote | Comments |
|---|
| | Y | |
| | N | |
| | N | I think that moving the bolt will take away some of the grandeur of such an iconic line. Eldo is a place known around the world for its serious climbing, where even the "clipups" require a level of commitment that is rivaled at few other climbing locations. The fact that the newer generation of gym-bred climbers are just looking for another low commitment tick to add to their 8a.nu scorecards is not a reason to take away from the adventure and experience involved in climbing such an awesome route. |
| | Y | |
| | N | Hell no! The whipper is part of the character of the route (and is totally safe -- especially since the bolts have been updated). Furthermore, when I was working this route I figured out a way to heel hook/heel-toe cam that allows me to make the crux clip no problem. There are plenty of climbs in Eldo that could use some "bolt relocation" but this is not one of them. |
| | Y | I have climbed Your Mother, and taken the fall without clipping that bolt. It is indeed safe. I am still infavor of re location |
| | Y | |
| | N | I can understand both sides of this argument, and if the route were in a place like Clear Creek or Ten Sleep I might be for it. But changing the character of a route like this in Eldo just isn't right and for that simple reason I'm against this new bolt location. |
| | N | |
| | N | Moving the bolt will change the feel and character of this route and diminish the experience without adding any security as it is a clean fall.
|
| | Y | By all means, move the bolt. The sling is an eyesore, and the bolt should never have been put where it is in the first place. Your Mother is one of the best climbs for the grade in Boulder and it should be restored to how it was meant to be climbed. |
| | N | I have been working this route off and on for a couple of seasons. While definitely sporty, the current bolt placement is not unsafe. I am in favor of replacement, but not moving the bolt location. |
| | N | Colin Lantz was brilliant when he bolted this route. It is one of the best sport routes in Colorado. Of all of the 12d’s I have sent around the world it is up there as one of the best. Because of the Whipper! The route is mentally challenging! You have got to stick that jug or go for a big ride 300ft above the river. Honestly, if you are better protected for that move the route wouldn’t be that hard. Some routes are about how hard you can crimp. Some are about how much endurance you have. Your Mother is about if you can pull the move with the bolt below your feet and the river so far away.
I missed the move twice before I sent. Put a good anchor near the same location, but not higher. It is the grade of the route
|
| | N | |
| | N | |
| | N | Changing the bolt location will change the character of the route ... |
| | Y | Better to have a proper bolt placement than long slings. |
| | Y | |
| | N | |
| | N | I can't climb this route, but why do you hard-people want to reduce the difficulty when it is not dangerous? The argument about the hanging draw is a red herring. |
| | Y | The FA did give approval and it was bolted on rappel. Please, give up the idea that this is somehow a typical Eldo spice route. Enjoy the climbing and not the falling. It is too bad that Eldo is such an amazing place to climb, but is full of so many poorly protected climbs. |
| | Y | |
| | N |
A new bolt placed in the old pin location is one thing...but placing a higher bolt to clip prior to making the crux moves is altering the original ascent and ethics. |
| | N | |
| | N | |
| | N | Current placement is good for working the route and for skipping on the redpoint. The protection is part of the climb and the climb is classic as is - don't change it! The fixed gear argument is a red herring - go strip the draws and while you're at it brush the holds. |
| | Y | I'm torn as those last moves are really the most memorable considering the difficulty and potential air time. It is safe... and exciting. Yet obviously to most all, including Colin, the bolt was placed wrong to begin with. In the end I come down to this: if and when it is time to replace the bolt, put it where it should have been in the first place. |
| | Y | |
| | Y | About time. |
| | Y | |
| | N | I am deeply opposed to lowering the crux bolt. If it needs replacing, so be it (I did not notice significant damage to crux bolt) but lowering it would change the nature of the climb. Your mother is not only difficult but only committing. If you want to climb it step up to the challenge, don't lower it to your level. |
| | Y | |
| | Y | |
| | Y | |
| | N | This route is a close 2nd in Edlo eye-sores... Desdichado being a 1st and more visible, in that there are always abandoned draws and tat on it. Add or move bolts, why not just add some new holds? If there were any more chalk on the rig it might qualify as a limestone route in Eldo...
|
| | N | Definately replace the old bolt.
As for relocation, I generally think that the FA party has that initiative, and in this case has given it... I understand the reason whay and the arguements in favor.
I guess I question why a route should be altered 20+ years later though, given that it is not unsafe. It's a trade sport route. So as for relocation, I would tend to say no. |
| | Y | |
| | Y | Takes away some spice from the route but it is a sport route and not some run out trad climb. |
| | N | Although I understand Colin's comments on how the first ascent was done I believe only replacement is needed- The fall is extremely safe(I have taken it) and adds much character to this historic route- If long runners are often found they should be removed but the added more holes to the resource is not needed for safety on this route- Please don't do it!!! |
| | Y | Draws and cheater slings left on routes in Eldo should definitely be viewed as abandoned gear/trash/booty. Don't turn Eldo into your gym. No danger from me taking these, though. Way too hard for me to climb. But I don't like the draws left behind. |
| | Y | |
| | Y | |
| | N | The fall is safe and gives character to the route. I agree with replacing the bolt, but do not agree with relocating it. |
| | N | |
| | Y | I am in favor of the proposed bolt relocation. The last bolt is not in the best location the way the route is climbed now. The last bolt is only in its present location due to the fact that the route was so steep that I never top-roped it before bolting it and so I was not able to practice all of the clipping locations for the bolts. I simply reverse aided the route on rappel, placing the bolts as I worked down, and working the moves as I went in order to find the right bolt placements. I was reasonably sure the bottom of the route would go because the holds were so large and easily visible from the ledge below and the sideways perspectives from around the ledge area. What I could not tell from below was whether or not the last move would go. Once I rapped in from the top I was able to see that the last move would go and so I started placing the bolts and down aiding. The first bolt placed (the last one clipped when climbing the route) was probably not placed in the best location.
So, while I would love to take credit for intentionally making the last move extra-sporty just for the thrill involved, it did not really happen that way. I was just trying to make a fun steep jug haul that a lot of people would enjoy climbing. My feeling was that the more people that got to say, “I just did Your Mother and it was awesome”, the better.
|
| | Y | |
| | Y | My sincere apologies to the climber making the proposal. He did, indeed, contact the FA party and obtained his approval. Bravo to the proposer! |
| | Y | This bolt needs to be replaced. Moving it down would be the logical thing to do, as it would improve the route experience and eliminating the need for an unsightly long sling at the crux. |
| | N | |
| | Y | Most folks are clipping the long sling before moving into the crux, and the Park considers this advent -- often fixed -- an eyesore. |
| | Y | |
| | N | Whatever happened to contacting the FA party to ask them if it is OK? Colin is still around and kicking, I am dismayed that no mention of contacting him and asking him how he feels was mentioned in the proposal. |
| | N | The one very memorable aspect of this climb is the stunningly terrifying yet absolutely safe fall taken if you blow the crux. It adds singular character to the climb, and provides great psychological training.
|
| | N | Ridiculous! Fixed draws are unsightly and NO climber should be leaving them on this route over night!! What a stupid reason to relocate the bolt. Sounds like someone needs to sac it up like many before them! New bolts = good work but relocation is just wrong! While you are taking down the fixed poot, do another community service by removing the other unsightly visual impact of the anchor on Sunset Boulevard!!!!! |
| | N | Seems like part of the character of the route, though contrived, was throwing for the ear with the likelihood of taking a big safe fall. |
| | Y | |
| | Y | |
| | Y | |
| | Y | Only if approved by Colin Lantz - the FFA I believe. |
