New Route – Criller

Route NameCriller
LocationLower Peanuts
Grade5.11+
FFA N\A

Description

This application is for a new route on Lower Peanuts.  Please view the application HERE

 

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5 replies
  1. varment
    varment says:

    Appears from the topo that there’s a serous run out to the ear feature, was that not where Wane’s gear failed? I understand that his accident was a bit freak but is the ear solid?

  2. monty
    monty says:

    I am a conditional yes. I too am curious about the gear near the ear, especially if that is where Wayne’s gear failed. Any additional information would be greatly appreciated.

  3. lisastern513
    lisastern513 says:

    What do the applicants think the safety rating for this proposed route is (i.e. G, PG, PG-13, R)? It is my opinion that modern routes in Eldo should be safe to lead onsight for the competent climber. In other words, G or PG.

  4. mikeschlauch
    mikeschlauch says:

    I’ve top roped the route with the applicant, Steve Annecone and I’ll try to answer the questions. Steve will probably also chime in. Wayne’s injury was not caused by gear failure, it was caused by two carabiners getting unclipped from the long alpine slings. He was above the ear when he fell. One marginal nut with a screamer did rip out and probably caused the oscillation in the rope which then caused the two biners to unclip from the long slings. The biners stayed clipped to the rope but unclipped from the slings. (Twice!) There is bomber gear in the ear and bomber gear below that as well. You can probably search the MP forum or look up more details about the accident in the AAC accident report. Wayne is still slowly and steadily recovering from the TBI. He was recently asked about the route and he replied “Bolt It”. As far as the safety of the proposed route, I would rate is 11+ PG. Originally Steve was thinking about 8 bolts, but the application is for 10 plus a 2 bolt anchor. Steve has alot of new route bolting experience in the Flatirons and I’m confident he’ll do a fine job. Wayne’s friends will all be involved too.

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