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What is "the" Eldo rack?

ColinDeveloper
Hey all! Wanted to kick off a discussion regarding what I'd consider "the" Eldo rack. Obviously everyone has their own preferences, and depending on the objective, what you and your partner bring out will change drastically (please do your own research for each route, and error on the side of caution over saving weight. I've found I'd rather bring the entire kitchen sink than not have the gear I need). First of all, I'm not as seasoned as many other local folks, but I've had my share of getting into some business and not so ideal situations (major hail storm on Yellow Spur, yikes). Always bail instead of getting committed, when in doubt aid it out! Also don't take the R ratings so lightly, Eldo R's are quite spicy! My default rack is doubles in cams from 0.2 through BD #1. I always check beta on Mountain Project for any larger gear requirements, but it's pretty rare that I'd bring out two BD #2s, #3s, or #4s. Here's a short and sweet list of routes where the bigger pieces earn their place: - Ruper (5.8+): BD #4 for the Ruper Crack - The Bastille Crack (5.7): BD #3, and the alt line (5.8) on the second pitch takes a BD #4 - Rewritten (5.7): an optional BD #3 helps for the anchor before the crux pitch Offset nuts are a must in Eldo, period. They're standard on my rack regardless of whether I'm in Eldo or elsewhere. I also carry a full set of stoppers Eldo's pin scars and constrictions eat passive pro and I'll sprinkle in some smaller bootied nuts and occasionally bring the RPs (first pitch of Perversion you'll be glad you brought them). My standard cam rack: single: 0.1 Z4, UL BD 2 and 3 doubles: 0.2 0.3 0.4 Z4, .5 .65 .8 totem, .75 1 C4 I try to keep my alpine draws light, around six, and use them sparingly; they're handy for anchors that need a bit of extension. Beyond the alpine draws, I always bring a couple of double-length slings and a long runner or two. Eldo's pitches wander and there are horns everywhere to sling. Also 4 light weight quick draws for the occasional pin and bolts. On the personal side, I tend to wear TC Pros or Katanas, since Eldo is either jamming your feet into cracks or stepping on tiny face edges. If I had to choose one shoe forever, I'd probably go with the Katanas, they fit my feet well compared to other "sport" shoes. best, Colin

(edited June 30, 2026)

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4 Comments

Charlie

Colin! Thanks for starting this convo. I imagine this thread will fill up with a lot of opinions... I'm curious on where this one goes! 6 QDs, 4 alpines and between 3 and 6 shoulder lengths. Offset nuts are your friend, and having a few RPs on the biner won't ever hurt. Never leave the ground without a green (or two!). Save the micros (.2 and below), #4 and offset cams for specific routes. When in doubt, double up! Consider it training weight if you don't use up all the cams on your rack. I was recently enlightened to Katanas for some of the harder face climbs in this canyon. I'll never go back unless I'm on a moderate trade route, in which case I'm throwing on something more comfortable like TC Pros. Water water water. Bonking sucks. Buy a half liter hard shelled bottle and wrap a small cord around it. Soft shelled bottles are great until you're replacing them every season. You'll use this in more places than Eldo!

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ColinDeveloper
(edited)

Oh, good callout with the water on the harness! Sumer days can be brutal in the sun.

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Justen

For about 95% of my Eldo outings, I rely on a highly specialized rack suited for short roping or tackling whichever multi-pitch lines happen to be open and in good shape. During the winter months when I focus more on cragging and headpointing, I'll switch things up. Usually, I just gear up at the vehicle to avoid carrying a pack, unless it's a dedicated cragging day. - Single set of Black Diamond 0 to #3 - Single set of Offset BD Cams from .1/.2 up to .5./.75 - 5 stoppers from larger RP's to mid size nuts - 4 quick draws and 6 alpine draws - 3 nano traxions - 2 lockers - Cleaning Tool - GriGri - 30 meter rope or a 60 meter rope - .5 liter water bag with a bar - Clip On Wind Shirt - Helmet - Light Approach Shoes or Sticky Rubber Flip Flops In the winter when I crag more I'll increase the size of the rack from the one posted above. - More small nuts - Red & Blue Ball Nut - Hand Placeable Peckers - Selection of additional cams from small to hand size - Maybe a 70 or 80 meter rope for the ease of Top Roping / Lowering Exercise good judgment and enjoy the process. Eldo offers a lifetime of potential objectives where success often depends on waiting for that perfect window of opportunity. True wisdom in the canyon involves recognizing when to push for the sharp end on a dream line versus being perfectly content with a clean top-rope lap. Ultimately, it's about mastering risk management and making smart decisions.

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ColinDeveloper

Offset BD Cams are awesome for Eldo! I climbed with Becca once and got to use a few.

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