Hey all! Wanted to kick off a discussion regarding what I'd consider "the" Eldo rack. Obviously everyone has their own preferences, and depending on the objective, what you and your partner bring out will change drastically (please do your own research for each route, and error on the side of caution over saving weight. I've found I'd rather bring the entire kitchen sink than not have the gear I need). First of all, I'm not as seasoned as many other local folks, but I've had my share of getting into some business and not so ideal situations (major hail storm on Yellow Spur, yikes). Always bail instead of getting committed, when in doubt aid it out! Also don't take the R ratings so lightly, Eldo R's are quite spicy! My default rack is doubles in cams from 0.2 through BD #1. I always check beta on Mountain Project for any larger gear requirements, but it's pretty rare that I'd bring out two BD #2s, #3s, or #4s. Here's a short and sweet list of routes where the bigger pieces earn their place: - Ruper (5.8+): BD #4 for the Ruper Crack - The Bastille Crack (5.7): BD #3, and the alt line (5.8) on the second pitch takes a BD #4 - Rewritten (5.7): an optional BD #3 helps for the anchor before the crux pitch Offset nuts are a must in Eldo, period. They're standard on my rack regardless of whether I'm in Eldo or elsewhere. I also carry a full set of stoppers Eldo's pin scars and constrictions eat passive pro and I'll sprinkle in some smaller bootied nuts and occasionally bring the RPs (first pitch of Perversion you'll be glad you brought them). My standard cam rack: single: 0.1 Z4, UL BD 2 and 3 doubles: 0.2 0.3 0.4 Z4, .5 .65 .8 totem, .75 1 C4 I try to keep my alpine draws light, around six, and use them sparingly; they're handy for anchors that need a bit of extension. Beyond the alpine draws, I always bring a couple of double-length slings and a long runner or two. Eldo's pitches wander and there are horns everywhere to sling. Also 4 light weight quick draws for the occasional pin and bolts. On the personal side, I tend to wear TC Pros or Katanas, since Eldo is either jamming your feet into cracks or stepping on tiny face edges. If I had to choose one shoe forever, I'd probably go with the Katanas, they fit my feet well compared to other "sport" shoes. best, Colin
(edited June 30, 2026)