Cadillac Crag – Brand New Cadillac

Brand New Cadillac

“This application has three options. The first option is to add two bolts to the route “Brand New Cadillac” AND to move the current two bolts down slightly for better clipping. The second option would be to ONLY move the two current bolts. The third would be to leave the route in it’s current state.


Route NameBrand New Cadillac
LocationCadillac Crag
Grade5.11c R
FADavid Houston, Kirk Peterson


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Brand New Cadillac

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9 replies
  1. jafridberg@gmail.com
    jafridberg@gmail.com says:

    Looks like a spectacular line that could be a classic if more people dared to jump on it. It would probably still be pretty exciting with the 2 extra bolts.

  2. Matt Reeser
    Matt Reeser says:

    I don’t think this route needs any more bolts. One of Eldo’s hidden gems! Part of what makes this route special is the way it was bolted. Bold routes should remain bold, safe routes should remain safe.

    I am in favor of moving the third bolt down about 1 foot to remove the nut extender.

  3. Laura Mack
    Laura Mack says:

    I think that moving the bolts to improve the clipping stances is the best option.

    Given that the route is rated R, I think that it should be maintained at that level.

    I have not climbed the route but got feedback from someone who has.

    I want Eldo to maintain it’s roots of having daring routes.

  4. monty
    monty says:

    I could go either way on this application. It’s hard to say no to the FA wanting to change the character of their own route, especially one that hasn’t seen that much traffic over the years. I’ve made some of my own routes unnecessarily dangerous in the past and was happy to have the opportunity to fix them. Since this route was originally done top down, I can’t really think of the route as being particularly bold in the first place. This is all of course speculation from the comfort of my favorite easy chair and I’m sure I’d be terrified on the sharp end.

  5. Nate Beckwith
    Nate Beckwith says:

    I think those in the community in favor of these kinds of routes need to clearly and honestly disclose whether they rehearsed the route top-down or not before sharing that opinion. My own opinion is that this style of climbing isn’t even trad climbing and shouldn’t be confused as such when citing the Eldorado tradition of facing risk with skill. It’s not ground-up climbing.

  6. lisastern513
    lisastern513 says:

    I vote for Option 1, although I’m conflicted. On the one hand, I basically think R-rated rap-bolted routes are silly for the reason that the FA team can check out gear placements and potentially rehearse moves – something the ground-up leader can’t do. I recognize that many Eldo routes were established top-down and they shouldn’t all get retrobolted, but this one seems to get little traffic and would benefit from moving/adding bolts. On the other hand, I wouldn’t support adding or changing bolts on the Doub-Griffith, also runout and (I believe) established top-down. Don’t want to be setting the wrong precedent.

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9 replies
  1. jafridberg@gmail.com
    jafridberg@gmail.com says:

    Looks like a spectacular line that could be a classic if more people dared to jump on it. It would probably still be pretty exciting with the 2 extra bolts.

  2. Matt Reeser
    Matt Reeser says:

    I don’t think this route needs any more bolts. One of Eldo’s hidden gems! Part of what makes this route special is the way it was bolted. Bold routes should remain bold, safe routes should remain safe.

    I am in favor of moving the third bolt down about 1 foot to remove the nut extender.

  3. Laura Mack
    Laura Mack says:

    I think that moving the bolts to improve the clipping stances is the best option.

    Given that the route is rated R, I think that it should be maintained at that level.

    I have not climbed the route but got feedback from someone who has.

    I want Eldo to maintain it’s roots of having daring routes.

  4. monty
    monty says:

    I could go either way on this application. It’s hard to say no to the FA wanting to change the character of their own route, especially one that hasn’t seen that much traffic over the years. I’ve made some of my own routes unnecessarily dangerous in the past and was happy to have the opportunity to fix them. Since this route was originally done top down, I can’t really think of the route as being particularly bold in the first place. This is all of course speculation from the comfort of my favorite easy chair and I’m sure I’d be terrified on the sharp end.

  5. Nate Beckwith
    Nate Beckwith says:

    I think those in the community in favor of these kinds of routes need to clearly and honestly disclose whether they rehearsed the route top-down or not before sharing that opinion. My own opinion is that this style of climbing isn’t even trad climbing and shouldn’t be confused as such when citing the Eldorado tradition of facing risk with skill. It’s not ground-up climbing.

  6. lisastern513
    lisastern513 says:

    I vote for Option 1, although I’m conflicted. On the one hand, I basically think R-rated rap-bolted routes are silly for the reason that the FA team can check out gear placements and potentially rehearse moves – something the ground-up leader can’t do. I recognize that many Eldo routes were established top-down and they shouldn’t all get retrobolted, but this one seems to get little traffic and would benefit from moving/adding bolts. On the other hand, I wouldn’t support adding or changing bolts on the Doub-Griffith, also runout and (I believe) established top-down. Don’t want to be setting the wrong precedent.

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Feel free to contribute!

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