Direct start & extension to Free Speech

Direct start and extension to Free Speech

This application is for adding 1 lead bolt for a direct start to Free Speech and two lead bolts above the anchor for an extension”.


Route NameFree Speech
LocationWhales Tale
Grade12a
FAMike Brooks

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Approve the 3 bolts for the direct start and extension of Free Speech?

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3 replies
  1. jerzita
    jerzita says:

    my experience with the belay zone is that the belayer is standing close to the rock and the trail there – a bit east of the monument cave area – is about 6 feet wide so there seemed plenty of room for hikers and other parties to pass by if the climbers don’t take over all available space. just good etiquette as on any cramped belay area.

  2. Ken
    Ken says:

    At the bottom of my beta photo you can see shoes and rack on the wall to the right of Jeroen and Andrew. The trail is wider there so that is the place to put the packs out of the way. Talking to hikers is part of the fun for me but please remember that climbers made this park happen, especially Pat Ament and Governor Richard Lamb.

    It has been noticed that a cam is possible at the proposed first bolt location, blocking an important hold (left hand undercling). After climbing down to the ground and bounce testing the cam it usually pulls!

    Proposed bolt #2, above the anchor on Free Speech, is perhaps too much since the small alien holds when top rope bounce tested. My mistake!

  3. Laura Mack
    Laura Mack says:

    Given that the route is rated R/X and that these bolts make the route safer, per the application. I am not in favor. If the ACE board after trial runs on the route sees it differently then I defer to their decision making.
    Eldo has always been a place that has embraced the uncomfortable. There are plenty of routes that I will most likely never climb without a rope above my head. I’m okay with that. Not every route needs to be an enduring classic and for those few who have the mental skill to do these routes – I think we leave these routes untouched.

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3 replies
  1. jerzita
    jerzita says:

    my experience with the belay zone is that the belayer is standing close to the rock and the trail there – a bit east of the monument cave area – is about 6 feet wide so there seemed plenty of room for hikers and other parties to pass by if the climbers don’t take over all available space. just good etiquette as on any cramped belay area.

  2. Ken
    Ken says:

    At the bottom of my beta photo you can see shoes and rack on the wall to the right of Jeroen and Andrew. The trail is wider there so that is the place to put the packs out of the way. Talking to hikers is part of the fun for me but please remember that climbers made this park happen, especially Pat Ament and Governor Richard Lamb.

    It has been noticed that a cam is possible at the proposed first bolt location, blocking an important hold (left hand undercling). After climbing down to the ground and bounce testing the cam it usually pulls!

    Proposed bolt #2, above the anchor on Free Speech, is perhaps too much since the small alien holds when top rope bounce tested. My mistake!

  3. Laura Mack
    Laura Mack says:

    Given that the route is rated R/X and that these bolts make the route safer, per the application. I am not in favor. If the ACE board after trial runs on the route sees it differently then I defer to their decision making.
    Eldo has always been a place that has embraced the uncomfortable. There are plenty of routes that I will most likely never climb without a rope above my head. I’m okay with that. Not every route needs to be an enduring classic and for those few who have the mental skill to do these routes – I think we leave these routes untouched.

Leave a Reply

Want to join the discussion?
Feel free to contribute!

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