New Route/Retro Bolt – I Can’t Copeland

This application is for adding lead bolts to the existing aid line “I Can’t Copeland”.

Route NameI Can’t Copeland
LocationSouth Buttress of Redgarden
FAKyle Copeland

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Approve the addition of bolts on I Can't Copeland?

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6 replies
  1. steve a
    steve a says:

    Seems like a great route, but please make sure the 4 proposed bolts are adequate. No one wants a contrived PG-13 or R-rated route when it’s being bolted top down. Are the “microcams” protecting the 5.12+ section adequate? Hopefully ACE folks get a chance to TR and take a close look in that regard.

  2. Michal Matyjasik
    Michal Matyjasik says:

    Hey Steve,
    I am open to adding another bolt or two as necessary to keep things safe if the ACE committee agrees to it. The microcams are good but specific.

  3. Michal Matyjasik
    Michal Matyjasik says:

    I went back last night to clean lichen on the route and refine all of the bolt placements. I am certain that the 12+ crux gear is totally bomber. There is a purple/blue offset mastercam followed by a purple mastercam that are both constricted and in excellent quality rock. The 12+ is safe to lead on gear only.
    However, as I was toproping, I realized that the follower would risk a swing over a somewhat-sharp lip if they blew the crux. Therefore, I propose that the route continue up and left after the crux on 5.10 jugs with the addition of a fifth bolt directly above the crux bolt to protect the follower (and the rope), adding a couple body lengths of high quality independent climbing before merging with the last two bolts of the Vaporizer.
    The application should be updated with this information shortly.

  4. nbb
    nbb says:

    I voted no – please put in a bolt at the crux – then I would vote yet. If those micro cams pull, and eventually they will, the leader is dead. A “bouldery” 12+ crux protected by micro cams is ridiculous even by the already ridiculous Eldo standards of super-wiring a route on top rope, then bolting it for a climber who doesn’t exist – then of course the route remains practically dormant. Rosy II and After the Goldrush, put up many years ago, have each had very few ascents, several bails, generally by climbers considerably stronger than their moderate grades, as per comments on This appears to be another example in the que – kind of a waste of precious rock.
    – Nate Beckwith

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